Tutorial: How to Sew a Sleeve Placket

In this post, I will show you step by step and with images how I sew a sleeve placket to get a neat and professional finish.

This post is part of a series of posts on different sewing techniques and tips for beginner garment makers :)

Learn to sew a sleeve placket

Step-by-step tutorial

Before we start, find here a link to download the two pattern pieces I drafted to make my sample. You can print them out and use them to practice before you sew a sleeve placket using your most precious fabric. Get some calico or fabric scraps and let's get to work!

1. Print out the two pattern pieces for the sleeve placket practice. One is called Placket A (which would be part the sleeve) and the other is Placket B (the actual placket piece).

Cut one each and transfer all the marks and lines from the pattern pieces onto your practice fabric. Use a ruler and some fabric pen or chalk. I little trick I used, if your fabric allows it, is to place them against a window when the light is coming in to copy them easily. 

Remember to copy those marks on the supposed wrong side of your fabric.

2. Pick up Placket B and with the wrong side up, press the sides in by 6mm following the first outer lines found on the pattern piece. 

Then, press the next two folding lines at either side of the placket again towards the centre as shown below.

To create the pointed top of the placket, turn the sample over and press the top corners in at a 45 degree angle to create a triangle. Press. I used a pin to keep it in place for the next steps.

3. Open out the placket and position both Placket A and Placket B with their wrong sides up on top of each other (so the right side of the placket is facing down and the wrong side of the sleeve is facing up).

Match the points shown below (and that you will find on your pattern pieces) where placket and sleeve match. Pin and sew along the rectangle. 

Carefully, cut along the centre line of your rectangle, then cut into the corners with a Y shape and making sure you don't cut on your actual stitches.

4. Turn the whole placket piece through the opening towards the right side of the sleeve (placket A piece) and press as shown. I placed a few pins to make sure everything was lying flat.

Making sure that the left narrower fold has the seam allowance tacked in, pin and sew edgestitching that side of the placket in place.

5. Next, fold the placket outer layer following the mark on your pattern piece into position. This layer is wider so when folded it will completely cover the opening.

Pin and edgestitch the placket in place from bottom to top, along the edges of the rectangle and down up to a certain point and across the placket.

You can mark the place where you turn to stitch across the placket beforehand to make sure that you are covering the top of the placket in your stitches.

And you are done! :) 

It might look quite a bit challenging but as soon as you practice a couple of times, I assure that you will feel confident enough to do a very decent placket on your next dress or blouse project.

I hope you found this post interesting :) Thank you for reading and I will see you back here soon.

Happy sewing!


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